Dining in Xi'an

When I was asked if I would like to try the clear liqueur on offer, I didn't realize my acceptance would allow me to punch anyone I wanted in Xi'an.

Attending a dinner with 17 people, of which I am the only foreigner, is intimidating, especially since only two others can speak english.

At least the food is delicious, this is one of the most spectacular dinners I have been to, with tens of dishes being wheeled around the large table, and diners grabbing with their chopsticks as they go by.

It wouldn't have been intimidating if I had been able to eat my meal quietly in the company of the two english speakers on either side of me, but it would appear that most of the people at the table have taken special interest in the Lao Wai (foreigner) at the table.

I also have a sneaking suspicion that this hastily put together gathering was arranged especially for me.

The clear liquid tastes similar to Sambuca, and I've been assured it is of the best quality and won't give me a hangover. The first shot was tough, the drink burned all the way down, but I did a good job of hiding my discomfort.

After taking the first shot, a flurry of conversation was directed my way. I could only understand the odd word, my lovely girlfriend was kind enough to translate for me, but her translations seemed too brief to sum up what was really being said.

But maybe I'm just being paranoid, I'm sure they are not talking about me this much.

Feeling slightly drunk after the first drink, meant that the second and third shots went down much easier. However, it made it much more difficult to get up from my chair, when called upon to salute other diners.

The apparent ease with which I took down the first few shots seemed to intrigue many at the table, including the short man wearing the military uniform. He was kind enough to walk over to my side of the table, and offer consecutive drinks.

Clearly trying to test the foreigner's limits.

The Chinese custom to show respect, is to stand up during a meal and walk over to a person who you would like to honour, and take a drink. If the other person does not (or can not consume anymore alcohol), then the person that began the exchange loses face. To lose in face in China is unthinkable, and the last thing I wanted to do was piss anyone off.

Usually people lower on the social ladder are expected to salute those  that are higher, younger people should honour those that are older, if it is a business function, employees will salute those that are higher on the corporate ladder.
 
Since I was new, and oblivious to this custom, other diners walked over to greet me.

Many guests at the dinner introduced themselves to me, and asked the standard questions such as where are you from? And, what do you do for work? But two guests at the table, after several drinks, had more memorable introductions.

The first, after introducing himself as a police officer, informed me that I could go to the bell tower, which marks the centre of the old town in Xi'an, and punch anyone I wanted in the face.

The little man in the military uniform, not too be outdone, followed this up by saying I could punch anyone I want at the best military hospital in Xi'an.

Now this may seem like an odd offer, but really it's flattering. These connections, known as Guan Xi, are what connect society in China.

Later on, several such connections, or exchanges, between people at the table were pointed out to me.

One family was attempting to pave the way for their son, who is currently in medical school, to work at the aforementioned military hospital; while another family was trying to give their son a chance to work at the company, where other members of the dining party are in management positions.

While Guan Xi is often used for selfish reasons, it can also connect people who may have no similarities, other than who they know. It adds depth to social exchanges, and is a very important aspect of Chinese culture.

The type of gathering I found myself at that moment wouldn't happen in Norther America.

For an outsider, it was incredibly entertaining, and it provided insight into what I had previously seen, but not understood, in China.

Plus now I can punch anyone I want in the face.