Thursday 29 August 2013

The Wan Chai crab


The fish is struggling violently in the shallow water, splashing in it's desperate attempt to survive. Unfortunately for the fish, even if it were to escape the styrofoam container, it would only be able to flap, hopelessly, on the dry pavement below. It's just about impossible for it to reach the harbour, 500 or so meters away.

While I am considering the fish's slim odds of survival, a voice next to me snaps me to attention.

"Wallet!" demands Serena, my girlfriend. She has finished bartering with the seafood vendor. I zoned out, as I often do, when the conversation turned to Cantonese.  

We came to the wet market to get supplies for tonight's dinner, and have apparently settled on four crab. I've never eaten crab before; well at least not crab that actually looked like a crab, only dips and deep fried meat that I was told was crab.

It can be an intimidating experience, for a foreigner, shopping at the wet markets in Hong Kong. As soon as you enter you are assaulted by a fishy smell and vendors yelling desperately in Cantonese. If you are able to make it past the fish, you enter the pig zone where a freshly slaughtered hog's edible parts are all on display. Everything from it's ribs to it's organs are hung, as if to dry, in the steamy 45 degree heat.

While the seafood vendor busily gathers the crab, one has worked it's way to the edge, and as the vendor reaches for its nearby brother, her hand knocks the crab out of the container.  

The crab crashes to the ground, miraculously it is able to land on it's feet. Like an escaped convict who's improbable plan has somehow worked, it looks around unsure of itself, before quickly darting out of sight.

Serena is wondering about the best way to cook tonight's dinner, and asks the vendor for her advice. As the conversation again turns to Cantonese, my attention drifts to the escaped crab...

After darting between two styrofoam boxes, the crab looks around to ensure that no one is following. Then, after a few tense seconds, it cautiously climbs underneath a piece of cardboard.

There it waits, for the cover of night, when its chances of escape are greater.

However, just as the crab settles down for some much deserved rest, the world starts to shake, and the platform begins to roll forward.

A very tanned shirtless man pushes the cart, yelling at shoppers, cigarette in mouth, to get out of the way.

As the man continues, half of his load begins to slide, causing the crab to dangle precariously off the edge. As it desperately tries to get back on the platform, something catches it's attention. A small stream running into a crevasse on the side of the road, the crab releases its pincer grip, and splashes into the sewer below.

After a series of gentle slides and waterfalls, the crab finds itself in a large pool, where several streams have come together. It begins to hear a terrible rushing sound, and as it begins to question the safety of it's escape route, is suddenly sucked through a small tunnel and shot to the other side.

After regaining its composure, Crab looks around to find herself in a small pool of water which is lazily winding it's way to the sea.

The Sea!

Crab frantically kicks her legs, desperate to finish the improbably escape. Just as the harbour is within her grasp, a terrible shriek is heard from above. A great bird grasps Crab in its talons, and swoops away.

Crab struggles to get free, so close to freedom, she won't quit yet.

Crab manages to get a pincer loose, and uses it to pry out the rest of her body. Straining under the effort she knows it's now or never...

"Hey! Are you ready to go?" My girlfriend's voice snaps me back to the Wan Chai wet market.

"Oh, shit...Sorry?" I respond stunned.

"I'm all done, let's get going. What were you looking at?"

"Nothing, I mean...nothing. Yea, I'm good to go"

As we leave the market I look back over my shoulder, hoping to view a glimpse of the escaping crustacean. Nothing, the crab is already far away, to the sea.









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